Destination: El Salvador? Yes! Maybe you’ve heard it’s dangerous, or maybe you remember its civil war. El Salvador does bear the scars of war, and its people have suffered. Gang activity led to high crime in the past 20 years. But don’t be afraid to go! It is a developing country, and a beautiful, colorful one. Under the current administration, crime has dropped significantly.
The country boasts a year-round warm tropical climate, 23 active volcanoes, a beautiful coastline with black sand beaches, world class surfing, an abundance of flowers, and a modern infrastructure.
Why El Salvador?
For US travelers, the country is easily accessible (eg, flying to San Salvador from Atlanta only takes 3.5 hours). It’s in the GMT +7 time zone (the same as Mountain Time in the US), so “jet lag” is not a big issue. The official currency is the $USD, so there is no need to calculate exchange rates or convert your $USD. Further, El Salvador is on the same electrical standard as the United States, so all your electrical devices will plug right in. Additionally, El Salvador is an inexpensive travel destination.
But the best thing about El Salvador are its people, kind, gracious and friendly. Oh, and did we mention the food?
Logistics
Getting To and Around El Salvador
Most US-based airlines have nonstop flights into the capital city of San Salvador from major cities like New York, Atlanta, and Los Angeles. A flight from Atlanta takes about 3.5 hours to complete.
Hiring a private driver for your travels within San Salvador, for daytrips from the city, or even for extended travel throughout the country can make a lot of sense. If you are traveling as a couple, a family, or as a group, this may be a great option.
Private drivers charge much less than in the US or other developed areas. You can be dropped right at your destination. Drivers know the streets and how to drive in El Salvador (driving is aggressive in the cities).
We recommend Papagayo Adventures for private driver / guide hires. We know the owner and his son and have met several of the other drivers. In addition to driving, Papagayo Adventures provides private guides for any of El Salvador’s many destinations and attractions. Message them on Instagram: @papagayoadventures or email [email protected].
Options for Cars
Uber is super cheap and quick in San Salvador. We paid about $2 for a 2.5 mile ride within the city, and less than $40 for a ride for two with luggage from the airport to the east side of San Salvador.
Tip: While easy and cheap within San Salvador, you may have trouble or a long wait getting an Uber back into town from destinations like El Boqueron National Park. We recommend hiring a driver for day trips from San Salvador.
Most of the large car rental companies have operations at the San Salvador airport and some have other locations in the city. We paid about $70 for a 5-day rental, picking up in the city.
Tuk tuks are small, motorized, three-wheeled vehicles that operate like taxis. You can find tuk tuks in most medium to large towns in El Salvador. Retractable roofs allow for an open ride or cover during rain. They are extremely cheap, sometimes costing less and $1 to travel a few blocks. A tuk tuk can accommodate two passengers. To hire, simply approach any driver as you would a taxi and pay in cash.
Arrival at SAL Airport
The main international airport in El Salvador is the International Saint Óscar Arnulfo Romero y Galdámez Airport (SAL). The airport is modern with plentiful and convenient facilities including duty-free shops, fast food and full-service restaurants, and bars.
International flights deplane on the second level. Tourists arriving into SAL must pay a $12 tourist fee. Have this ready in cash. This is the first thing you will do after leaving the plane and before arriving at Immigration. Turn left from your gate to pay the fee, then proceed on to Immigration, where you will show your passport, be asked why you are coming into the country (you are a most likely a tourist), and where you will be staying. Have the address of your first night’s stay ready.
Baggage claim is on the lower floor. Upon exiting the airport, you will be in the transportation area, which has a nice food court complete with some fast food chains. These include local chains as well as familiar chains such as Pizza Hut and Subway, and coffee shops.
Planning This Itinerary
After a number of iterations via our itinerary building approach, we settled on the following itinerary.
Download as Open Document Sheets and use in Excel or a cloud spreadsheet tool (e.g., GoogleDrive or Office 365). Update your arrival date in cell A2 and get started on your itinerary (automations/equations are embedded to make a few things quicker). This file can serve as a template for other trips as well.
Here is a map of our recommended route and sights.
Download as a KML file and use in Google Maps, Google My Maps, OpenMaps, or other mobile apps from the full screen view.
Eating in El Salvador
Food in El Salvador is delicious – and inexpensive by U.S. standards. Fish and other seafood, as well as steak, are prevalent on menus, and are fresh and tasty.
All over El Salvador are countless food stalls selling handmade tortillas, pupusas, tortas, fruit, and fruit drinks in plastic bags with a straw inserted.
A backpacker on a budget could eat well for a few bucks per day. In restaurants, a 10% tip is added to all checks – no need to tip beyond that amount.
Breakfast (Desayunos)
In restaurants, where prices are low by U.S. standards, choose the traditional El Salvadoran breakfast. It typically consists of two eggs cooked your way, refried beans, fried plantains, tortillas or other bread, and sour cream or cheese. It will cost $8-10 in most restaurants and is substantial enough to power you through the morning and beyond. Check to see if breakfast is included with your accommodations.
Pupusas
The national food of El Salvador, pupusas are ubiquitous at roadside stands and on restaurant menus. Pupusas make a great lunch, consisting of thick tortillas stuffed with cheese and frijoles as the staple ingredients. They may also include chicken, pork, seafood, vegetables. Sometimes pupusas contain loroco, an edible flower used in cooking throughout El Salvador. Pupusas are inexpensive, delicious and filling and are usually served with sour cream and a cabbage relish and/or salsa.
Coffee
El Salvador is known for coffee (café). Years ago, when the indigo industry began to suffer, many landowners moved to coffee as a crop. In the 1920’s and 30’s, coffee represented 90% of the country’s exports1.
Any coffee fan will be delighted with Viva Espresso, an upscale shop in the Col. San Benito area of San Salvador (map). There is a limit on how much coffee you can take out of the country, so keep that in mind when making purchases.
Aguas Frescas
These fruit drinks are blended, not-too-sweet, and refreshing. A variety of fruits including strawberries, melons and papaya may be used. El Salvador also boasts delicious lemonades (limonada).
Pollo Campero is popular fast food chain.
Please visit our detailed guides to destinations included in this perfect week:
San Salvador – Historic District
Hiring a Guide for Touring the Historic District of San Salvador: Tour with a guide if possible. Our tour was led by Gerardo of Papagayo Adventures El Salvador (see the company Facebook page or email [email protected]).
Gerardo speaks perfect English and is a fantastic and knowledgeable guide. He is licensed to give tours throughout the entire country. A private tour of the historic district with Gerardo as our guide was a colorful and rich experience.
Papagayo Adventures, which provides tours and transportation, is a family business started by Gerardo’s father. In El Salvador, private guides can be hired affordably, providing some protection, and making it a win-win situation!
Plaza Libertad
Liberty Plaza (“Plaza Libertad”) marks the geographical center of the city of San Salvador. At its center is a marble and bronze monument topped by the “Angel of Liberty.” The statue commemorates the nation’s struggle for independence from 1811-1911.
Iglesia El Rosario (Holy Rosary Church)
On the east side of Liberty Plaza is the Iglesia El Rosario. From the outside, the church looks like a nondescript concrete structure.
Step inside to see the astonishingly beautiful display of color created by its stained-glass windows. Every color of the rainbow is present, and the colored light casts onto the black and white tiled floor, creating stunning effects.
Look up to the wall above the door you came in to see the stained-glass Eye of God.
Plaza Gerardo Barrios
One block west of Liberty Plaza, Plaza Gerardo Barrios features a 1909 bronze statue of the former President.
Surrounding Plaza Gerardo Barrios are the National Palace and the Metropolitan Cathedral of San Salvador.
National Palace
The current National Palace (El Palacio Nacional de El Salvador), a national historic monument, was completed in 1911. Set on the wide Plaza Gerardo Barrios, this impressive building is a great photo spot, especially in front of “EL SALVADOR” spelled out in large colorful letters.
Metropolitan Cathedral
The Metropolitan Cathedral in San Salvador is an important Roman Catholic church located on Plaza Gerardo Barrios. Originally built in the late 16th century, the church has been rebuilt twice due to earthquake and fire, but still boasts its original Byzantine and Romanesque styles.
Many visitors come to pay homage to St. Oscar Romero, a hero and martyr of El Salvador’s civil war. There is a large painting of St. Romero to the right of the altar. Go downstairs to see the crypt where he is interred.
Entry to the Metropolitan Cathedral is free and it is open 8 AM – 5 PM with masses at 6 AM, noon and 5 PM.
Open Air Markets
Adjacent to Plaza Gerardo Barrios and just to the south are colorful open-air markets with farmers and vendors selling produce, souvenirs and cheap eats – definitely worth a stroll through.
August Festivities
Our guide, Gerardo, shared with us about the August Festivities (Fiesta de San Salvador), which is the largest and longest running festival and holiday in San Salvador. For six days each year, August 1-6, the entire city is caught up in celebration of the Transfiguration of Jesus, The Savior (“El Salvador”), and includes family and religious events as well as parades and partying.
Other Places of Note in San Salvador
Café Luz Negra.
Located in the historic district, this independent coffee shop serves up delicious lattes, cappuccinos, frappes, and its signature drink, the Luz Negra. The Café also serves inexpensive pastries and other breakfast and lunch items, such as crepes, panini sandwiches, and pizza.
The atmosphere is relaxed and comfortable. While there are Starbucks and Juan Valdez chain locations in San Salvador, why not check out and support this local business?
Super Selectos Grocery Stores for your modern shopping needs
If you need a modern grocery store with the essentials for cooking, snacking and picnicking, head to a Super Selectos location. Along with good grocery staples, its large produce section offers a wide variety of fruits and vegetables. It also has a nice bakery with delicious looking breads and pastries.
Plaza Futura
El Salvador’s World Trade Center area features the Plaza Futura, a modern outdoor plaza with shops and restaurants. When we visited early on Sunday afternoon, local artisans were selling craft clothing, skin care products, scents, home décor, gifts, and more.
We ate lunch in the outdoor dining area, where our server brought us menus from three different restaurants. Alice had a delightful Ceviche Mixto and Fred had a seafood bowl with rice from Kosta Cevicheria.
Look for the excellent photo spot overlooking the city and Lake Ilopango (Lago Ilopango).
Notes on Driving and Walking in San Salvador
Traffic in downtown San Salvador is heavy and chaotic with many one-way streets and a “survival of the fittest” vibe. Pedestrians do not have the right of way in El Salvador, so be careful crossing busy roads. Outside of San Salvador, each town seems to have at least one speed bump (tumulos). Sometimes these are hard to see and can sneak up on you.
Recommended Accommodation
We stayed at the new Hotel Sueños. Its fantastic location near the World Trade Center and the Budget Rental Car, walking distance (1km) to a mall with a Super Selecto grocery store, and not far from the historic area attractions, makes it a great base for your time in San Salvador. Our double-double room was clean and adequate with comfortable beds, air conditioning, a walk-in shower, and a small refrigerator.
Eduardo at reception took good care of us, helping with our luggage, and we met Jose, the owner. Both Eduardo and Jose spoke English. Jose lived in the US for many years and recently moved back to El Salvador to open this hotel.
An excellent complimentary, in-house cooked breakfast is included with your room. The breakfast staff was kind and thoughtful of our needs and made us feel at home.
If you don’t need fancy, Hotel Sueños is a great find!
Daytrip from San Salvador: El Boqueron National Park
This national park can be visited as a half-day trip from San Salvador. It is about 30 minutes from the city center to the park. Here you can see the massive El Boqueron crater, the park’s main attraction. The crater is about 550 meters deep and 1.5 km wide – quite an impressive sight!
There are also hiking trails with scenic views of the city. At the time we visited, the park was closed for renovations, but we were able to see the crater using an alternate trail to the rim. As of the date of this writing, there should be a new, modern visitor center open.
Dining Near El Boqueron Crater
After touring the El Boqueron crater, we stopped for lunch at Hacienda San Cristobal. This restaurant serves delicious, fresh food in an open-air setting. There are fantastic views of San Salvador below. Check out the restaurant’s IG: @hsancristobal. Prices are affordable, with a large steak meal costing around $15 at lunch.
with View of San Salvador
Termales de Santa Teresa (Thermal Baths Resort)
The Termales de Santa Teresa is a large facility with hot springs and thermal baths near the start of the Rutes de las Flores and about 1.5 hours by car from San Salvador or 45 minutes from Santa Ana.
Bring your swimsuit and get ready for a day of relaxation and fun! At the entrance to the Termales de Santa Teresa is a geyser with steam constantly rising. Get some photos and a short video here before driving in. The driveway up to the parking area is rocky and a bit rough but can easily be driven in a car. After parking, walk up to the top pool and make your way down, spending time in whatever pools interest you.
It would be easy to spend a full day here, relaxing and exploring the pools, some scalding hot (we didn’t get in those!), some very warm, some cool, and several large, warm swimming-sized pools. The color of the water in the various pools ranges from emerald-green to vivid blue.
The Grounds
The beautiful grounds feature flowering plants and tropical trees. Swing in a hammock, sit and relax on deck chairs, and have coffee or lunch.
You will climb some stairs and a hilly path on your way back up to the top if you visit all the pools, but this is easily doable for a reasonably fit person.
The staff seemed adequate and were busy cleaning the pool decks and grounds and making improvements to the facilities when we arrived. The restaurants and bars were not yet open when we visited, but there are several outdoor dining areas.
We arrived early (at the 9 AM opening) and had the place to ourselves for the first hour or so.
Entrance Fee: $10 to enjoy multiple pools of varying sizes and temperatures. Sauna with eucalyptus and mud bath: $10 extra. Couples massage: $35. Outdoor cold-water showers and changing rooms are provided free of charge.
Hotel Resort
Termales de Santa Teresa offers adequate rooms from $80 per person/night. Package deals including breakfast and dinner are available.
El Jardin de Celeste
After spending the morning at Termales de Santa Teresa – or anytime, go for lunch (or dinner) at El Jardin de Celeste, a luxurious restaurant in a garden setting (map). Located about 15 km south of the Termales de Santa Teresa in Ataco, this restaurant is often touted as the most prestigious in all of El Salvador.
El Jardin de Celeste has a tasty, extensive menu. The grilled steak kebobs entree is enough for two! Lunch, including Aguas Frescas, coffee and dessert, was about $25 per person. Fresh drinking water is provided at no cost.
After dining, walk around the grounds to see the many varieties of trees and other flowering plants. Great photo opportunities!
Local artisans at stands just inside the restaurant sell coffee from the plantation, handmade textiles, and other gifts.
There are also cabins for rent and the entire enterprise is set in a coffee plantation.
Suchitoto
Suchitoto, about two hours car ride from San Salvador, is a charming, picturesque colonial town with cobbled streets, a large, beautiful cathedral, and quaint, colorful houses and buildings. The town is compact, walkable, and less hectic and crowded than San Salvador or Santa Ana. You will find abundant photo opportunities in Suchitoto. Just wander its streets.
Some places in the town offer sweeping views of beautiful Lake Suchitlan, which lies to the east of the town.
Walking Tour of Suchitoto
Take a Historic Walking Tour led by Rene Barbon, the owner of Suchitoto Adventure Outfitters. Rene is knowledgeable and insightful about the culture and history of the town and of the country of El Salvador. He clearly loves and believes in his country and its people. For $20/person (and it was just the two of us), you can take a thorough, 2-hour tour of Suchitoto. We traveled around in Rene’s van between some destinations.
Los Tercios Cascada
The first stop on our tour was Los Tercios Waterfall (Los Tercios Cascada), which is about 1.5 km from Suchitoto. It’s a short but steep hike down to the waterfall, so wear sturdy shoes. (The picture below is from July 2024. Contrast with the trickle in October in the next picture.)
This is an unusual and beautiful falls, with water cascading down hexagonal basalt columns formed by volcanic activity. Rene shared stories from the lore surrounding the waterfall, making the time there enjoyable, and giving us a view into the local legends. Before heading back to town, walk out to the viewpoint (mirador) for great views down to Lake Suchitlan.
The Main Square
Next on the tour was a visit to the Santa Lucia Church (Iglesia Santa Lucia), which dates from 1853.
Shops Near the Square
Near the main square and cathedral, you visit Laura Peña, the last cigar roller remaining in Suchitoto. She has been rolling cigars for many years and demonstrated her process to us. You can learn to roll a cigar, and for $5, purchase a bag of 12 or so freshly rolled cigars.
We also stopped by Arte Añil (an indigo shop) to meet Irma Guadron. Irma, who was open, kind and gracious, gave us a quick orientation and demonstration of the process of producing indigo-dyed clothing and other items. I bought a shirt and scarf here.
For $30, you can book an educational workshop with Irma where you will make a scarf to take home. Her shop sells a variety of indigo-dyed products, from clothing for men, women and children, to quilts, tablecloths, tapestries and more. Check out her Instagram page, @irma_guadron.
We also learned about Alejandro Cotto, a filmmaker and writer who was known as the “Son of Suchitoto.”
A visit to the Arts for Peace Center (Centro Arte para la Paz) is a moving experience. Children in Suchitoto only attend school half-day due to lack of space. The Arts for Peace Center provides supplemental classes in the arts. Sister Peggy O’Neill founded the center and still works as its director. With Rene, who is also an artist, as our guide, this was a worthwhile stop.
Recommended Accommodation in Suchitoto
We recommend the Mayan Grouper, a two-room hotel situated within a gated, secluded property and owned by Rene Barbon of Suchitoto Adventure Outfitters. When at the Mayan Grouper, you will be treated to amazing views of Lake Suchitlan and the surrounding mountains, and immersed in the beautiful gardens, including banana plants and lime trees, hammocks and a relaxing covered patio.
Our spacious and comfortable room cost $120 per night for two people and included breakfast. Dora, Rene’s assistant, prepared a delicious, made-to-order El Salvadoran breakfast that we enjoyed at a garden table.
Santa Ana
Santa Ana, El Salvador’s second largest city, bustles with traffic and people. It is a colorful city with food stalls and street markets everywhere. You can find free street parking if you are willing to walk a few blocks to the center of town.
Getting there: Santa Ana is about 75 km or 2 hours from San Salvador. The roads are good, and the area is rural. It’s a scenic, interesting drive that passes small villages and farms. In the approach to, and through each town, you will encounter numerous speed bumps (“Tumulos”), making the drive somewhat slow but still worthwhile.
Historic District
Santa Ana’s main sights are in a compact historic area surrounding its main square, Liberty Park (Parque Libertad).
Santa Ana Cathedral
Stop first at the Santa Ana Cathedral (Catedral de la Señora Santa Ana), which is located at the heart of the city’s historic district. This soaring cathedral is highly photogenic with its white walls and impressive neo-Gothic architecture and spires.
Designated as a national monument in 1995, the current structure stands on the grounds of the original church, which was built in the late 1500s. The original parish was destroyed by lightning in the 19th century.
Construction on the new cathedral began in 1904 and was finished in 1959. We were unable to find regular hours for visiting posted anywhere online. Unfortunately, the cathedral was closed during the entire two hours we were in the area. We hope it will be open when you visit!
Liberty Park
Liberty Park (Parque Libertad), right across the street from the front of the cathedral, is a great place to take photos and people watch. Check out the monument to Liberty. See our section “Soak in the Vibe” below for tips on enjoying Liberty Park and the streets of Santa Ana.
National Theater of Santa Ana
This theater is the oldest in Central America and a national monument. Completed in 1905, the architecture of the theater is eclectic, combining Romanesque, Greek and Renaissance styles.
A tour of the theater is worthwhile. Tours are offered Wednesday through Sunday 8 AM to 4 PM (no admittance without tour). The English tour is $5/person or $7 if you wish to take photos inside.
Our guide spoke excellent English and gave a thorough tour, including information on the history of the theater, the president’s balcony box, and the elaborate men’s and women’s salons. The art deco interior of the theater is elaborate and decorated in dark red, gold and polished wood.
Other Sights in Santa Ana
About 1.3 km away from Parque Libertad is the Old Art School (Escuela de Artes). The ruins of this colonial school are said to be a photographer’s dream. We tried to visit but were turned away by police; entrance to the attraction now requires a permit which must be obtained at the tourist office in the main square.
Adjacent to the Old Art School is a large market. This huge, colorful area, which stretches for blocks, is not primarily a spot for tourists. Wander through to shop and for a fantastic cultural experience.
Soak in the Vibe
Grab some tortas and a big, cheap pack of fresh fruit called ‘jocote’ from street vendors or treat yourself to ice cream at the nearby Boston Ice Cream location. Soak in the vibe of this colorful city. Take a walk through its streets or hang out with the locals in Liberty Park. Families with children chasing pigeons filled the park during our visit.
Lake Coatepeque
This beautiful, natural crater lake is part of the Coatepeque Crater. It stretches over 26 square kilometres, is 120m deep at its deepest, and is said to be one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. The lapis blue water is stunning set against the forested hillsides. Luxury homes dot the shoreline.
A famous landmark on the lake is the Captain Morgan’s Hostel, which is about 30 minutes away from Santa Ana. Stop in for a drink along the lakeshore. Reviews for the hostel are terrible, so don’t stay there.
Accommodation on Lake Coatepeque
Staying on Lake Coatepeque before a Santa Ana Volcano hike is doable and provides for a relaxing, restful night. We stayed at the Hotel Equinoccio resort (book direct), which is about one hour away from Santa Ana on the lake’s southwest shore. The hotel is built into a hill with the gorgeous lakefront grounds descending down to the lake. There is a fantastic deck above the boathouse (check out the diving platform!), and a small but exquisite swimming pool.
Our lakefront room was clean and modern with every amenity we could want. This is a place to relax, which is what we needed. (The hotel also offers kayak rentals.)
We unwound from our previous days of sightseeing on the boathouse deck, enjoying the breeze and the beautiful lake. Occasionally a canoe or jet ski would travel past, but this is a peaceful, relaxing spot. We also enjoyed a swim in the pool.
Enjoy pupusas by the pool at Happy Hour in the evening, eat at the hotel’s indoor/outdoor restaurant and watch the lights come on over the water.
The staff were friendly and attentive, but not intrusive.
Practically adjacent to the hotel is the ferry to the island of Teopan, a Mayan site that also has some of the most exclusive homes in El Salvador. It was fun to watch the ferry shuttling back and forth.
Santa Ana Volcano / Cerro Verde National Park
One of the highlights of our trip was the hike to the top of the Santa Ana Volcano in Cerro Verde National Park. We did this with a guide, Gerardo of Papagayo Adventures El Salvador. You can email them at [email protected] to schedule your hike). We paid about $150 for the guided hike for the two of us.
You are not allowed to do the hike without a guide, and it seemed to us that there would have been a lot of hassle if we had gone with one of the group guides you meet at the base of the volcano. Our time is valuable, and we did not want to spend half the day waiting for a guide to decide that his or her group was large enough to head up.
Tip: With a private guide, you can set your own schedule. Gerardo will pick you up in San Salvador or Santa Ana. He is a thorough guide, and a friendly young man, who is also an official tourist guide for all of El Salvador. Gerardo has guided many hikes in El Salvador, including a group of older people hiking every volcano in the country!
Hiking the Volcano
For the Santa Ana Volcano hike, Gerardo met us at 6:15 AM on the other side of the lake from our hotel. We drove from there to a private parking lot ($3) not far from the trailhead, arriving there about 7 AM. This is a safe place to leave a car with luggage as it is watched by the owner all day. Because we were with Gerardo, we could start hiking before the opening of the park office (which is at 7:30 AM).
At 2,381 meters, the Santa Ana volcano summit is the highest point in El Salvador. You will gain 465 meters in elevation. We had the trail to ourselves the entire way up, not passing another person until after we left the summit. The hike was about 6 miles roundtrip and moderately difficult. In some places, the trail is steep, but it is doable for a reasonably healthy person.
Views along the way are spectacular, as you can see the Izalco and Cerro Verde volcanoes along the hike and from the summit. The flora changes along the hike. As you move into a subtropical highland micro-climate, you will begin to see desert-like plants.
It took us a little over an hour to hike up. Unfortunately, the day was cloudy, and the summit was socked in with cloud and mist, windy and quite cool, which was a bit shocking after a week of warm temperatures. Wear layers!!
The Crater
Due to the inclement weather, we could barely see the surreal, teal-green-colored lake deep in the caldera. On a clear day you can see all the way to the Pacific Ocean. Since it was cold, and visibility was poor, we headed back down after taking some photos.
Down at the ticket office, we paid our entrance fee ($7, but free for persons aged 60 and older) and used the free and clean restrooms.
Dining in the Park
A short drive away, Los Volcanes Bistro Café, was a great spot for a well-deserved El Salvadoran breakfast with excellent coffee. The bistro has fabulous views over the national park and Izalco Volcano. Outside are walking trails and a playground for children. Since the bistro is inside the Cerro Verde National Park, we needed to pay to park in the main lot.
Driving from Cerro Verde National Park to El Zonte and the Coast
The best route from the Cerro Verde National Park to El Zonte is south via Sonsonate on National Hwy 12, turning east (left) onto National Hwy 2 in San Julian. The 70 km drive is scenic, especially the portion on National Highway 2 that hugs the shoreline. As you near the coast, you pass through five dark, numbered tunnels. Watch for great views down to the ocean as you approach El Zonte.
El Zonte
El Zonte is a classic beach destination in El Salvador famous for surfing. It is also laid back and chill. El Zonte is also relatively close to the airport which served us well since we were flying home after our beach stay.
The Beach at El Zonte
The beach here is relatively narrow. Accommodations along this stretch of beach are elevated above the surf by a low wall. As such, chairs are not provided for sitting right on the beach, but you can swim, walk the beach, and enjoy the views with a cold drink from the resort’s patio and deck.
El Zonte is world renowned for surfing. March through May are peak months. We were here in October when the 4’-5’ waves made for exhilarating body surfing.
Be aware that you risk skinning your knees or other body parts on rocks hidden in the water to the left of Olas Permanentes when facing the water.
There were almost always surfers in the water up and down the beach.
Olas Permanentes Beach Resort
Tip: For our beach stay, we wanted to be close to the El Salvador International Airport (SAL) since we would be flying home the morning of our last night’s stay. Olas Permanentes in El Zonte is only 52 km from the airport, or about an hour’s drive. Hence, it was an easy decision to book here.
This small, compact “resort” is smack dab on the gorgeous black sand beach. The water is warm all year, with temperatures constantly in the 80s F.
Tip: While we recommend this “resort” as an inexpensive, laid-back beach accommodation, do your own research. At the time we traveled, it was difficult to find other beachfront lodgings for a reasonable rate.
The main building of Olas Permanentes is directly on the beach, and it is where you will eat and spend most of your outdoor time, aside from swimming, surfing and exploring the beach. The structure is really more of a bar patio and an upstairs deck.
Olas Permanentes provides a good value and experience for the cost. Our room, which had two double beds and ensuite private bathroom was $80/night. It was basic but clean with comfortable beds.
There is also a small pool with a fountain and outdoor showers. The beachy feel creates a relaxing atmosphere.
The resort can be noisy at night until around 10 PM.
Dining at Olas Permanentes
You can sit at the bar or hang out at casual dining tables on the lower level, which has a sand-covered floor. Upstairs, there are hammocks, bar stools overlooking the water, and covered tables and benches.
You can order food and drinks on both levels of the main building. The attentive staff did not speak English for the most part, but they were patient with our very limited Spanish and Google translate.
The food at this resort is fresh and delicious. We ate dinner here both nights, trying a few varieties of ceviche, Pizza Mexicana baked in an onsite stone oven, fried seafood dinner, steak, and delicious, fresh and cheap Aguas Frescas.
Caves / Arches at El Zonte
Down the beach from Olas Permanentes are caves/arches that can be explored at low tide. Turn right on the beach when facing the water and head down past a rocky point (you will need to climb around or over some rocks; this can only be safely done at low tide). Once around the point, look right, and you are there.
In the other direction (left down the beach from the resort), you can walk down to (and through if you wish, and have water shoes – it is rocky!) a creek that divides the town and flows into the ocean. On the other side of the creek, and a little further down the beach, sheer cliffs rise up from the shore.
Surfing Lessons
Olas Permanentes offers surfing lessons. Approach the reception kiosk between the parking lot and the lower deck to inquire.
El Zonte to El Salvador International Airport (SAL)
The drive from El Zonte to the airport (SAL) is 52 km. However, we planned 1.5 hours for the drive, ignoring the one hour drive time provided by Waze. It is always best to cushion the allotted time when flying! The drive follows the coastline past La Libertad, before continuing straight east then turning slightly south toward the airport at San Luis Talpa. In La Libertad, you pass Sunset Park, a colorful, beachfront amusement park.
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