Grand Canyon Hike to Phantom Ranch

Multi-Day South Rim Hike to the Bottom of the Grand Canyon with Stay at Phantom Ranch

While we had visited the Grand Canyon before and had talked for a long time about hiking to the Colorado River at the bottom of the canyon, it wasn’t until 2019 that this aspiration became reality. A hike into the Grand Canyon provides insight into just how huge it is – and wonderful. Our Grand Canyon hike to Phantom Ranch with two nights at PR was an exhilarating experience.

The sweeping scale of the canyon, the colorful rock layers, the ever-changing vistas, seem inconceivable to the human mind. Seen from the rim, the canyon is amazing and impressive, but by hiking down, it can be appreciated on a completely different level. The colors of the rock come to life – reds, oranges, purples, sandstone.

Our Grand Canyon hike was part of a longer trip that included Antelope Canyon, Montezuma Castle National Monument, Petrified Forest National Park, Page, AZ and Glen Canyon, Sunset Volcanic Crater National Monument, Sedona, AZ, and Wupatki National Monument. Our blog post / guide for that part of the trip can be found at (coming soon).

About The Hike

Hiking to the bottom of the Grand Canyon and back out is strenuous. By adding an overnight in the canyon, or better yet two nights, this hike is doable for the reasonably fit. However, doing the entire hike in a single day is a very strenuous undertaking. Only the ultra-fit should attempt it, and even then, the hike should not be done in the summer. Temperatures vary widely between the canyon rims and the bottom. Daytime temperatures at Phantom Ranch are over 100F in the summertime.

Tips for Hiking in the Grand Canyon

Water / Hydration / Electrolytes

Always carry all the water you will need for hiking in the Grand Canyon. Water is available at the trailhead year-round so you can fill up there. There is no water along the South Kaibab Trail, so bring plenty.

On the Bright Angel Trail, water is available May through October at Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse and Three-Mile Resthouse and year-round at Havasupai Gardens (f/k/a Indian Garden). But again, always carry all of your water. There are sometimes water disruptions; the supplies cannot be relied on.

Add electrolytes to add to your water. Electrolytes replace salts lost through sweat and supplements come in a variety of forms. We have had good success on long hikes with these electrolyte capsules (Amazon affiliate link) which are taken orally and these drops (another Amazon affiliate link) that are added to your water.

Understanding Temperature Ranges for Your Hike

Temperatures vary significantly between the South Rim and the inner canyon at Phantom Ranch. We traveled in September, when the average high at the South Rim is 73F and the average low 49F, compared to 96F high / 68F low at Phantom Ranch. Summer high temperatures are over 100F in the canyon. Be prepared for a variety of temperatures and conditions. Wear and pack layers!

What to Wear / Bring

We traveled extremely light for our Grand Canyon hike. Everything we took was packed into our hydration backpacks. We wore one outfit and took one to wear while there, washing the other in our cabin for the hike back out. We also took travel sizes of essentials like toothpaste, deodorant, shampoo and body wash.

See our Hiking Gear and Tips page for more information on what to wear and what to bring on a hiking trip, including your Grand Canyon hike.

Always carry an essential first aid kit. You can read more about hiking gear and packing, including first aid supplies on our Hiking Gear and Tips page.

In the picture below, we are on the Black Suspension Bridge over the Colorado River and almost finished with our hike down to Phantom Ranch. Note hats, sunglasses, Fred’s sweat absorber headband, hydration packs, hiking poles.

Mule Passing Etiquette (for Safety too!)

Pack mules transporting people, luggage and supplies to Phantom Ranch will pass you on both the South Kaibab and Bright Angel trails. In places, the trails are narrow and it is super important to know what to do and what not to do when passing a mule train.

The National Park Service shares the following trail guidelines:

“Always give mules the right of way. Encounters between hikers and mules have resulted in injuries to packers and even death to mules. To ensure safety for yourself, other trail users, mules, and mule riders, follow these steps when encountering mules on the trails:

1. Step off the trail on the uphill side-away from the edge.
2. Listen for and follow the directions of the wranglers.
3. Remain completely quiet and stand perfectly still.
4. Only return to the trail when the last mule is 50 feet (15 m) beyond your position.”

Emergencies

The trails in the Grand Canyon are randomly patrolled by rangers. This means that in the event of an emergency, and if other hikers relay the message, a ranger will be at your side eventually. There is also a ranger station at Indian Garden on the Bright Angel Trail.

How We Did the Hike

Our hikes to the bottom of the Grand Canyon and back up were from the South Rim. We hiked down on the South Kaibab Trail and back out on the Bright Angel Trail. The South Kaibab hike is just over 7 miles and the steeper, and more exhilarating, trail. We spent two nights at Phantom Ranch (a national park service lodge), where we had pre-paid for dinners both nights and sack lunches for the day of our hike back out of the canyon. On the third day, we hiked out on the Bright Angel Trail. This trail is 9.9 miles to the South Rim. Its trailhead is near Grand Canyon Village.

If hiking this route, be aware that the trailheads for the two routes are almost 5 miles apart, so you will not come up where you left. Plan ahead.

We stayed at the Bright Angel Lodge the night before our hike. This was a splurge for us, but it allowed us to get a good night’s sleep before the hike. We took an early morning hiker shuttle from Grand Canyon Village to the South Kaibab trailhead. And when we finished the hike back out on the Bright Angel Trail, our car was right there at Grand Canyon Village with all of our belongings, so we were ready to roll. After ice cream!

Why We Chose NOT to do a Rim-to-Rim Hike

A Rim-to-Rim hike starts at either the North Rim or the South Rim and finishes on the other rim, traveling to the bottom of the canyon and back out. While this is a bucket list hike for many, it requires you to hire transportation back to your starting point, or leave a car at one end or the other, or have someone pick you up. The driving distance between the two rims is about 200 miles, and takes at least 3.5 hours. For us, this is not worth our vacation time or the money. And the hike from the North Rim to Phantom Ranch is 14.2 miles, about twice as long as the South Kaibab Trail.

By doing our hike down and back out from the South Rim using two different trails, we saw the canyon from completely different perspectives. We describe both routes below. We also saved hours of hiking, plus time and money. This fits with our travel philosophy (see About Panoramic Pathways) of getting the most bang for our buck in terms of precious vacation time, and cost versus experiences.

Making Reservations at Phantom Ranch – Lottery System

It is HARD to get reservations at Phantom Ranch! Reservations work by lottery, with applications made 15 months in advance. We applied to the lottery for six months before we got spots in the bunkhouses. We applied each month to both the bunkhouses and the cabins.

The months we applied were not consecutive because of the weather / climate. We did not want to do our hike in months where temperatures are in excess of 100F at Phantom Ranch, nor when conditions might be icy at the South Rim. So we applied for the months of March, April, May, September, October and November.

In other words, we started applying in 2017 and were finally accepted for September 2019! To apply for the lottery, click here. Meal reservations for the Phantom Ranch canteen can also be made at that site and can be made after you have your lodging reservations.

Bright Angel Campground

If you want to camp, you can request a backcountry permit. There is a separate lottery for backcountry permits, which can be found here. The Bright Angel Campground sits along the Bright Angel Creek under shade trees. The campground has restrooms. And if you plan to camp, you can still make meal reservations at Phantom Ranch.

Getting on the South Kaibab Trail

The South Kaibab Trailhead is located near Yaki Point. There is no parking at the trailhead or at Yaki Point, so hikers must take the free park shuttle (check the shuttle schedules at the National Park Service website) or park a mile away, adding to the length of the hike. We got up super early, put our belongings in our car and took the 5:45 AM hiker shuttle to the South Kaibab trailhead.

Hiking down the South Kaibab Trail

Once off the shuttle, we wasted no time getting on the trail. Sunrise was around 6:05. It was dark, quite cold, and unbelievably windy as we headed out. We used our headlamps for the first mile or so. This was a bit terrifying for me with my fear of heights, so I kept my headlamp focused on the canyon wall side of the trail and stayed snug against it. I honestly thought I might be blown off the trail.

To Ooh Ah Point

The first portion of the trail down to Ooh Ah Point is a series of short but steep switchbacks, followed by a sloping trail along a cliff wall on your right. Eventually, after .9 miles, the view opens up at Ooh Ah Point.

Ooh-Ah Point is a rock outcropping from which you have sensational views into the Grand Canyon. The point faces east and seeing the sunrise over the canyon is a fantastic way to start your day. There’s a sign reading Ooh-Ah Point, so get some photos or selfies here. It’s hard not to Ooh and Ahhhh!

For many people, this is the turnaround point for their day hike into the Grand Canyon.

To Cedar Ridge

Continuing on down the South Kaibab Trail from Ooh-Ah Point, after another .6 miles and a total elevation drop of about 1,100 feet, you arrive at Cedar Ridge.

The trail to Cedar Ridge is paved in cobblestones and is beautiful in itself.

Cedar Ridge is a large, open (no shade), red-soil-covered area. Look back up to the South Rim to see how far you have come. There are pit toilets, and it’s a good spot for a snack and water. We saw pack horses here.

To Skeleton Point

From Cedar Ridge, the trail begins descending a series of switchbacks, then follows a cliff wall down until arriving at the large, open Skeleton Point. From here, the vistas are amazing. You can see the Colorado River for the first time.

Also, looking down the trail, you can see your path unfurling into the canyon along a ridge. Further down, you see the long series of switchbacks that will take you deep into the canyon.

At Skeleton Point, you have completed 3 miles of your hike and lost about 2,000 feet of elevation.

To The Tipoff

The first part of the trail from Skeleton Point to The Tipoff is fairly level and easy. Then you arrive at the zigzagging switchbacks. When I got hhere, and saw the steepness of the switchbacks, and the full length they cover, my heart skipped a beat. You go down a long way through this stretch!

I have some anxiety around heights, especially when in a vast space. But there was nothing to do but head down. I focused on one switchback at a time.

There was nothing truly dangerous about this stretch of trail; it’s just mind over matter! Hiking poles are especially comforting through this stretch. On a long hike like the Grand Canyon, hiking poles can save your knees on downhills and give your lower body a bit of relief on uphills. They also provide security when hiking on a narrow or steep trail. See our Hiking Gear and Tips page for recommended, reasonably priced options.

After the switchbacks, the trail opens out and is flatter. This is an area to make good time.

The Tip Off is reached at 4.5 miles and you have lost over 3,000 feet of elevation.

To Phantom Ranch

From the Tip Off, it is 2.8 miles to Phantom Ranch. We felt the anticipation of arriving at the canyon floor rising.

The trail follows a canyon wall, sloping downward until you come to another set of switchbacks that lead you to a tunnel through the rock and then to the Black Suspension Bridge over the Colorado River. The river that seemed so small from above now rushes below you and you feel its power.

The South Kaibab Trail ends at the far end of the Black Bridge. Turn left toward Phantom Ranch. You will leave the river almost immediately and curve along the Bright Angel Creek. The trail to Phantom Ranch is mostly through an open area and can be hot.

You pass the Bright Angel Campground on your left less than halfway to Phantom Ranch. Further on, you pass the Ranger Station and an amphitheater before finally arriving at the lodge.

The Phantom Ranch area is a river oasis. Some areas are open and covered in grasses; others have a leaf canopy of cottonwood trees. This provides some shade and is a welcome sight after hiking in the sun and the openness of the canyon.

NOTE: We’ve put all the information on Sleeping at Phantom Ranch and Things to Do at Phantom Ranch below so as not to break up our hiking log. But there is a lot of good info there, so check it out!

Hiking Out of the Grand Canyon on the Bright Angel Trail

The Bright Angel Trail is longer, at around 10 miles from Phantom Ranch to the South Rim, but that means it’s less steep than the South Kaibab Trail. Views along the way are dramatically different, and there are more trees and other green plant life. It’s great to have a different route for your hike up.

We headed out in the dark and used our headlamps for the first hour or so.

But first, we grabbed the sack lunches we had ordered from the back window of the canteen. The lunch was huge and kept us fueled all day. We bought a bag of ice ($5.50, worth every penny) from the canteen and added it to our hydration bladders, and then filled them up with water from the spigots outside. Having ice water all day – I still had ice in mine when we arrived on the South Rim – was a real blessing!

To River Resthouse

From Phantom Ranch First, follow the Bright Angel Trail over the Silver Suspension Bridge. The trail follows the Colorado River and the hiking through this section is flat and easy.

After about 2 miles, you come to the River Resthouse, where there is shelter, drinking water (but always bring your own water when hiking in the Grand Canyon), and pit toilets. No need to spend much time here, though, because you have a long uphill hike ahead. If you, like us, didn’t eat breakfast (like us), this is a good place to get your food and water going to keep fueled and hydrated.

There is no net elevation gain between PR and the River Resthouse.

To Havasupai Gardens Campground (formerly known as Indian Garden)

At around 5 miles, and about 1,300 feet of elevation gain, you come to Indian Garden. The first section from the River Resthouse to Indian Garden feels surreal after having hiked the South Kaibab Trail. Your surroundings are completely different. You are climbing, but the elevation gain is gradual. Knowing how much elevation we would gain on this hike, we made quick time.

The trail is beautiful and passes through a narrow gorge along Pipe Creek. Eventually, you reach a set of switchbacks and your legs really wake up. But the reward is the beautiful as you hike through the Indian Garden area, a lush oasis filled with songbirds and other wildlife. We saw deer along the trail here.

The Indian Garden campground has water, toilets and a ranger station. This is a good place to fuel up and hydrate again before your real climb begins.

To Three-Mile Resthouse

Leaving Indian Garden, the path continues easy until you hit the switchbacks that will basically continue all the way to the South Rim. At first, the trail passes through a narrow canyon. When you hit the switchbacks, you are almost to Three-Mile Resthouse. You can also see the South Rim as you start up. It looks closer than it is!

You have hiked about 7 miles, but you still have 3 miles and about 2,100 feet of elevation gain ahead.

Three-Mile Resthouse is a pavilion-like structure with a restroom, toilets, and an emergency phone.

To Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse

This section of trail is one switchback after another with some almost flat sections in between. The canyon opens out. When you stop for breath, look behind to see how far you have come!

To South Rim at Grand Canyon Village

From the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse to the South Rim is 1.6 miles. You begin to pass dayhikers and others who have ventured into the canyon from the South Rim. The trail is steep and can be hot.

You have already hiked about 8.4 miles, so you may be feeling tired. Make sure you are hydrated and keep fueling your body. You are almost there!

We finished around 11 AM. We had hiked around a 2 mile/hour pace, including stops.

Note: The earlier in the day you get out of the canyon, the better. It’s a balance of managing fatigue, turning around along the way to take in the canyon from different vantage points (when will you be here again?), and finishing your hike before the day gets too hot.

Sleeping at Phantom Ranch

We had gotten beds in the bunkhouses via the Phantom Ranch Lottery. The bunkhouses are basic, and you are provided a towel, a sleeping bag and a pillow. There is a shower in each bunkhouse and electricity so you can charge your phones and other devices.

The night we stayed in the bunkhouse, folks started knocking on the door at 4:00 AM and hollering for their hiking buddies to wake up. Arghhh…

Fortunately, that day a manager asked if we would like to upgrade to a cabin as there had been a cancellation. We said yes! The cabin cost more, but we slept much better the night before our hike out of the canyon. The cabins have bunk beds and are basic but comfortable.

Things to Do at Phantom Ranch

Hang Out In and Around the Canteen

The Canteen is the main building at Phantom Ranch. It’s essentially a dining hall filled with long wooden tables. This is where breakfast and dinner are served family-style (make reservations in advance).

During the day, folks hang out in the canteen, resting, swapping hiking stories, and eating (it’s okay to bring in your packed food outside of mealtimes). Some have just finished their day’s hiking, others are in the thick of their Rim-to-Rim hike, while some have arrived on a mule, or rafted in. There’s a spirit of camaraderie in the canteen and at the picnic tables on the grounds around it.

In addition to serving meals, the Phantom Ranch Canteen sells beer, lemonade and other beverages, and some snacks. The lemonade is particularly popular! It also sells souvenirs and basic hiker supplies such as ibuprofen and band aids.

Once you know the dates of your time at Phantom Ranch, be sure to reserve a spot for breakfast or dinner. They also sell a sack lunch for your day on the trail. To make meal reservations at the Canteen, go to Phantom Ranch Canteen | (grandcanyonlodges.com).

Mail a Postcard

Mules pack mail into and out of Phantom Ranch. You can buy postcards and stamps and there is a “Mailed by Mule” stamp available for use. It’s fun for your friends and loved ones to receive a postcard from Phantom Ranch and quite a tradition to mail them. Don’t forget mom!

Wade / Sit in Bright Angel Creek

People do! When I first heard about this activity, I wasn’t sure it would be my thing. But in 90F heat, with tired, dusty feet and legs, the cool creek felt wonderful. Most people just wear their clothes; humidity is low and you dry out quickly afterwards.

Hiking – River Trail

More hiking? If you have a full day at the bottom of the Grand Canyon as we did, it’s good to do a hike to keep loosened up for your trek out. To do the River Trail hike, head back to the Colorado River and cross it on the Black Bridge. The trail climbs high above the river and then follows it to the Silver Bridge, part of the Bright Angel Trail. After crossing the Silver Bridge, follow the path back to Phantom Ranch past the campground.

Check out this map, the best one we’ve seen, for understanding the area around Phantom Ranch.

Ranger Programs

Seasonally, park rangers offer talks at the amphitheater near Phantom Ranch after dark.

Watching Rafters on the Colorado River

Multi-day rafting trips stop near Phantom Ranch to regroup, send and pick up mail, and touch base with civilization, spending a few hours here. It’s fun to walk down to the riverbank where the rafts pull in, which is near the end of the Black Bridge.

The colorful rafts set against the green Colorado River are great for photography. We’ve never taken a rafting trip like this, so it’s also fun to see how the rafts are organized between people, gear, camp kitchen, etc.