Canyonlands National Park covers a vast area of more than 500 square miles in southeast Utah. It is a largely inhospitable region, featuring canyons within canyons, mesas, buttes, and spires. There are mesmerizing views everywhere you look. The austere beauty stuns the eye, and the vastness is hard to comprehend.
Perhaps the most accurate descriptor for Canyonlands is underrated. Why underrated? Well, Canyonland’s next door neighbor is the very popular Arches, one of our favorite National Parks. Plus, if you want to see a canyon, the Grand Canyon (South Rim) is about a 6 hour drive. Nonetheless, Canyonlands is extraordinary and worth the time. Where Arches boasts of “delicate” beauty, Canyonlands is rugged and surreal but remarkably beautiful in its own right. Canyonlands can also be a respite from the crowds of Arches.
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Experiencing the sheer scale of Canyonlands is not unlike experiencing the enormity of the Grand Canyon but different to be sure. From viewpoints in Canyonlands, one can see for 50 miles (most days), taking in multiple canyons, the iconic white rock formations lining the rims, mesas, and spires.
Planning, Logistics and Getting There
How Much Time Should You Spend at Canyonlands?
While Canyonlands can be visited by car in a half-day or full day as a driving / hiking tour in the Island in the Sky section. With an additional day, we highly recommend a guided tour down into Canyonlands. Alternatively, you can make your own 4-WD tour – permit required). Be aware that the roads within the canyons are primitive and require technical driving skills.
A tour below the rim of Canyonlands provides a surreal experience, as you are awed by the scale and variation within the park’s features. You also discover that while Canyonlands appears inhospitable from above, a variety of plants and animals make their homes here. We took a full day tour with NAVTECH Expeditions, which we highly recommend.
Two other areas of the park are The Needles and The Maze. While my heart was longing to visit these areas, they are quite remote and not easily accessible. We were on a tight schedule, visiting 5 national parks in 9 days, so we had to settle for what was practical given our time constraints. One and a half days was perfect!
Our Full 9-Day National Parks Loop Trip Itinerary
We visited Canyonlands National Park as part of a loop trip that began and ended in Albuquerque, NM and included the following national parks: Mesa Verde (CO), Arches (UT) – guide coming soon!, Black Canyon of the Gunnison (CO), and Great Sand Dunes (CO), as well as the city of Santa Fe, NM. (Be sure to check out the overview post of this desert southwest itinerary.)
With our busy 9-night itinerary, we only had 1.5 days for Canyonlands. We studied all the areas of the park in advance and decided to spend our time the first day in the Island in the Sky area. Island in the Sky is the only area of the park accessible without a 4-wheel drive vehicle (or a long hike!). For the second day, we took a full day White Rim Road tour with NAVTECH Expeditions out of Moab, UT.
How We Traveled / Accommodations
We planned to rent a small RV for our trip since our son would be traveling with us. When visiting national parks, we try to stay in park campgrounds. Since we don’t own an RV, and we don’t want to spend precious vacation time driving across the country from our home in Atlanta, renting an RV often makes sense. It allows us to camp in the amazing national parks’ campgrounds, close to the action and maximizes our time experiencing the parks. An RV also provides your transportation, lodging, a kitchen and a shower.
For this trip, we found a great deal on an RV rental out of Albuquerque with American Dream Vacations. The owner picked us up from the airport and drove us to his rental location, which was only 5 minutes away. This saved us time and money getting our bags and gear from the airport into the RV.
Tip: When looking to rent an RV, avoid large chains like Cruise America. They are much more expensive than smaller, independent companies. It may take a while to find the right-sized RV at the right price, but it is worth the effort. Careful planning of a trip avoids extra cost and mistakes.
Choosing a Campground for Your Canyonlands Visit
Since our Full Day White Rim Tour was leaving early in the morning out of Moab, UT, we chose to stay at a developed campground near the tour departure location. At the time the facility was known as the ACT campground; now it is the HTR – Moab Lodge and Cottages. Located at 1536 Millcreek Dr, Moab, UT 84532, the website indicates that it provides cottage and room rentals, as well as safari tents, and primitive tent sites.
The only campground in the Island in the Sky section is the Willow Flat Campground, which has 12 sites and is available on a first-come, first-served basis.
Dead Horse Point State Park provides an excellent option for camping near Canyonlands. The state park’s location, set on a mesa, is gorgeous, and overlooks the Canyonlands region. There are several developed, reservable campgrounds with modern facilities offering campsites and yurts. According to the state park’s website: “All sites are also equipped with RV electrical hookups (20/30/50 AMP).” For more information and to make reservations via Reserve America, click here.
Dead Horse Point State Park is located 30 miles from Moab and only 9 miles from the entrance to Canyonlands.
Visiting Canyonlands from Moab, UT
Moab is the launching point and overnight stay preference for many visitors to Canyonlands. The park is about 33 miles from Moab, where there are plenty of hotels and other accommodations. To get to the park from Moab, take US 191 northwest then turn south onto US 313, taking it straight to the park.
Approaching Canyonlands National Park from the South
We were coming from Albuquerque, NM and had made a quick stop at Mesa Verde National Park, so our route was up US 491 and US 91.
Along the Way – Wilson Arch
On your drive into Canyonlands National Park, don’t miss Wilson Arch, an impressive arch located along US Hwy 91 about 23 miles south of Moab. This arch is visible from the highway and sits on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land. A climb up into the arch from the roadside pullout is quick and awards you a great photo spot as you stand in the arch.
Canyonlands Sights Accessible by Car – Island in the Sky
By car, you can access amazing overlooks and trailheads in the Island in the Sky section by making a half-day to full day driving tour, depending on how much time you spend at each stop and whether you do some hiking.
We have organized the stops along the rim in clockwise order, traveling south from the Island in the Sky Visitor Center along Grand View Point Road, then turning right onto Upheaval Dome Road all the way to its end, and back out, turning right again onto Green River Overlook Road, and finally turning right again to rejoin Grand View Point Road to its end. To keep up with distances, set your trip odometer to zero at the Visitor Center.
Island in the Sky Visitor Center
The Island in the Sky Visitor is open 8 AM – 5 PM during the busy spring to fall season. Check the park’s website for current operating hours.
The Visitor Center is located just past the park entrance and offers exhibits on the formation of the park. There are also amazing views into Canyonlands from the Visitor Center. You can pay your entrance fee here. Fees for 2024 are $30 for a private vehicle, $25 for motorcycles, $15 for each person entering any other way. A National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass will gain you entry to Canyonlands. See our NP Pass page for information on purchasing a pass.
Shafer Canyon Overlook / Neck Spring Trail
The Shafer Canyon Overlook, situated 0.6 miles along Grand View Point Road from the Visitor Center, is your first stop. A short stroll of about 0.1 miles from the parking area takes you to the overlook. From here you have sweeping views into the Shafer Canyon and in the distance, the La Sal Mountain range. You can also see the Shafer Trail snaking its way into the canyon.
Shafer Trail Viewpoint
Shafer View sits at the 1.1 mile point. This stop features jaw-dropping views of the Shafer Trail as it descends into the canyon. Beginning in 1916, the Shafer Trail served as a cattle route, moving herds from their summer pastures on the mesa down into the canyon for the winter. This switchbacked route requires a permit, a high clearance 4 WD vehicle, and technical driving skills.
Mesa Arch
You reach the Mesa Arch Trailhead at the 6.3 mile point of your drive. From the parking area, it’s a .35 mile easy trek to the arch, making for a 0.7 mile roundtrip loop hike. Hike in a counter-clockwise direction for the best views going to the arch. You are rewarded for your effort when you arrive at the 27-foot-long arch and the sweeping views through it.
Caution: Mesa Arch sits atop a sheer cliff edge. Behind the arch is a sheer drop-off of almost 0.2 miles. Watch your children.
Just a bit past the Mesa Arch Trailhead, you come to a junction with Upheaval Dome Road. Turn right here. There are two great stops on this road, the Whale Rock Trail and Upheaval Dome.
Whale Rock
The Whale Rock parking area and trailhead is 10.6 miles from the Island in the Sky Visitor Center. You can see the whale-shaped rock from the parking area, but the hike is relatively easy and very rewarding. Getting atop the “head” of Whale Rock in Canyonlands requires a short 0.8 mile in-and-out hike.
This hike is great for children. We’ve read some accounts of the trail being hard to follow, but this was not the case for us. Just follow the cairns along the right side to go straight up the tail of the whale, then walk along its spine before climbing onto the head. From Whale Rock, you have amazing views to the west of Upheaval Crater and Upheaval Canyon.
Upheaval Dome Trail
Continue down Upheaval Dome Road another 0.8 miles to parking for the Upheaval Dome Trailhead.
The 1.7 mile out and back hike takes you to two fantastic overlooks. You travel on the rim of the 1,000 foot deep Upheaval Crater and can peer down into it. Interpretive signs provide theories on how the crater and dome were created. This is a moderately difficult hike with ups and downs and a rock scramble before the second overlook. We hiked to the first overlook and then turned back since we had much to explore and limited time.
The Upheaval Dome Trailhead marks the end of the Upheaval Dome Road, so turn around and head back until you reach the Green River Overlook Road. Turn right.
Green River Overlook & Viewpoint Trail
At the end of the Green River Overlook Road, and total driving distance from the Visitor Center of 17.4 miles, you reach the Green River Overlook Trailhead. The trail is only 0.2 miles long and flat, making it an option for anyone. The views of the Green River far below and the canyons and mesas are incredible. It’s a little bit of a drive to get out here, but don’t miss it!
On this road, you will pass the Willow Flat Campground, which has 12 first-come, first-served campsites.
Travel back out to the Upheaval Dome Road and turn right. When you reach Grand View Point Road, turn right again to continue your loop. Make a beeline for the end of the road and stop at the Grand View Point Trail. You will catch the rest of the sights on the way back. This allows you to continue making right turns as you complete your loop tour.
Grand View Point
The Grand View Point Trailhead is situated at the end of the road at the 25-mile point in your loop tour. This is the southernmost point in the Island in the Sky section of Canyonlands National Park.
From your car, it’s a short, paved walk to the overlook, which provides astounding views of the White Rim Road, and all the way into The Maze and The Needles sections of the park, as well as snow-capped mountains in the distance.
If you wish, you can continue on another mile to a second viewpoint. We turned around after the first viewpoint.
Back in your car, turn around and head back north on Grand View Point Road. Stop after 1 mile, or 26 miles into your counterclockwise loop, at the White Rim Overlook Trail.
White Rim Overlook
The White Rim Overlook Trail leads to one of the most stunning views in Canyonlands. To get there, start at the picnic area. To reach the trail, hike east about 0.1 mile and turn right where the trail intersections with the Gooseberry Trail. The Gooseberry Trail drops down into Buck Canyon, so turn right on the White Rim Overlook Trail, not left into the canyon. Simply follow the cairns along this relatively easy path of about 0.8 miles until you arrive at the trail’s end. From here, you have sweeping views down into Monument Basin. A layer of white rock outlines the canyon. Salt deposits create the “white rim,” making the vistas seem otherworldly.
Buck Canyon Overlook Trail
The Buck Canyon Overlook Trail is two miles from your last stop, or 28 miles into your loop tour in Island in the Sky. The route to the overlook is paved and short, making it accessible to everyone. You are rewarded with jaw-dropping views into the Buck Canyon area and the mountain ranges beyond. See if you can spot the Colorado River. The White Rim Road is also visible from here.
Candlestick Tower Pullout
Your last stop of the tour is at the Candlestick Tower Overlook, which is reached at the 30.3-mile mark. From here, the west-facing vista features Candlestick Tower, a sandstone formation in the shape of a candlestick, as well as panoramic views to the west.
Your tour concludes here. To get back to the Island in the Sky Visitor Center, drive back out Grand View Point Road 7.2 miles.
NAVTEC White Rim Tour
For our full day in Canyonlands National Park, we chose a full-day White Rim Tour with NAVTECH EXPEDITIONS which we highly recommend. The tour was pricey, at almost $300/person, but a worthwhile splurge. We wanted a trusted professional guiding our day and providing an awesome experience below the rim of the Island in the Sky section. Make reservations in advance.
The tour left out of Moab, UT. We traveled on the following roads, making the stops listed. We have listed the stops and embedded a map of our tour. Pictures with captions are below the map.
Stops along Potash Road
Prior to entering Canyonlands, we made several stops along Potash Road:
- Wall Street climbing area – sheer cliff walls popular with rock climbers
- Roadside Petrogylphs on Potash Road a/k/a Utah Hwy 279, about 5 miles traveling along the Colorado River.
- Dinosaur Tracks
- Jug Handle Arch
- Turnoff to Dead Horse Point State Park
- Elvis Rock on Potash Rd
Stops within Canyonlands
- Thelma and Louise Point
- Colorado River Overlook
- Shafer Canyon Road
- White Rim Road
- Musselman Arch Trail
- Lunch at the end of Lathrop Canyon Rd at the Colorado River
- Back to White Rim Road
- Really kool secluded spot with white rim rocks of river views
- S Fork Rd to Shafer Basin Rd with steep, sharp switchbbacks
- Long Canyon Rd
Download as a KML file and use in Google Maps, Google My Maps, OpenMaps, or other mobile apps from the full screen view.
Below are photos from our Full Day Tour with NAVTECH. See the captions for more information.
Be sure to check out our guides to other National Parks visited on this trip: Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Great Sand Dunes, and Arches (coming soon!).
Please leave comments with your thoughts on the information that is helpful to you. What are we missing? What do you like? The suggested itineraries? The routes? The photos? The descriptions and hints?